Fernando Olivira "How are you?" At this restaurant, maître d' Fernando Olivira sees people's choices change when hotter months roll around. Fernando Olivira "In the summertime they definitely prefer a white wine. It's just much more lighter, crisper, cleaner." Whether you're choosing a wine at a restaurant or at home, you want to be sure you'll enjoy it. Consumer Reports just tested dozens of white wines - 22 pinot grigios and 16 rieslings. Wine experts look for a wine's distinct qualities when tasting. "Pinot grigio is a fairly simple varietal. It's generally dry, and it's generally leaner and lighter than many other white wines." Pinot grigio is good with light pasta dishes or grilled fish. Rieslings can vary a lot. Paul Reynolds "Drier rieslings are quite versatile and go well with everything from pork, veal, and scallops to milder cheeses." And a sweeter riesling can be a good dessert wine. When Consumer Reports' tests were done, there were plenty of very good, inexpensive wines to choose from. For riesling, the 2010 Hogue Late Harvest topped the ratings. It costs ten dollars a bottle. For a pinot grigio, try the 2010 Black Swan Vineyards. It rated very good, and it costs a "light" eight dollars a bottle. ."